27/11/05 - 05/12/05 Sri Lanka (Update #4)
I sit hear writting to you with the mother of all hangovers..listening to stupid Christmas songs and sweating the drink out of me while Kelly pampers herself for her birthday. Send sympathy please!!
27/11/05 Sri Lanka (Negombo)
Arrived late last night amidst the rain. shared a taxi with two lovely Israeli girls..bit mad though. Didn't know that girls were also drafted into the army services, thought it was just the blokes. They can't understand why the Swiss draft people into the army as everyone likes them. She has a point !!.. and I reckon you could learn how to use a Swiss army knife in your own time too. Don't think they got the joke.
Sri Lanka has the feel of Jamaica, no hassle ! You say no once to the tuk tuk drivers and you're left alone.
Had dinner in a suicidal restaurant. Chef must have been given the elbow by his missus. Maybe he was forced to cook his favourite lobster. The music was just terrible. It would wipe the smile off a chimpanzee with its finger up its ars3.
The carpenters "you needed me", Atlantic Star "Secret lovers", Chris de berk "they're all sh1te" and loads of country and western songs such as "fetch me the noose my wife's in love with the neighbours horse" or "I thought you said size didn't matter" ..all bellowing out of the speakers. I wanted to run in the back and give him a hug.
Met up with the Israeli girls again...had a good laugh discussing our different cultures. They couldn't believe that Irish girls can't bring boys home to sleep over at 15. I think I'd be putting my Swiss army knife to some good use if I had a 15 year old daughter ask me that.
28/11/05 - Negombo
Got burned by the pool today..well actually I got burned by the sun while I was sitting near the pool but you know what i mean. Later when i left the room to get some Aloe Vera gel, after closing the door, i looked up to see an 8 legged creature make it's way towards the exit on the wall. I was quite happy with the direction it was taking until he decided to stop and run to the ceiling, then turn around to face me and sat there. He was a little bigger than a clenched fist, very fast and most importantly blocking me exit. I didn't remember ordering the spider ! This situation were something I hate puts itself between me and salvation had reared its head again (was it going to be 3rd time unlucky)
Casting my mind back to the rats or the snake, the same fear was gripping me. It's the same fear that made Kelly jump onto the nearest boat last week. By the time I got to her, she'd just managed to speak again..sobbing the words "wine... opener...please".
It's at this point that I'd like to dispel a myth...mark this one down as complete and utter b0110x please. It's one of these things people say to you to make you feel better.. like "freckles are a sign of beauty" or " the tooth fairy will pay you for that"..both of these can leave you heart broken when you find out the truth.
Im talking now though about the "they're more frightened of you than you of them" myth.. it's an impossibility, trust me. Something that looks like its about to latch onto your face to impregnate you with offspring is not afraid of you at all.
If he/she kept going towards the exit and didn't look back then you could accept this.
I waited for it to move, considered throwing something at it but if it caught it and ate it then I'd be in trouble. I walked slowly under it and past and had to do the same again on the way back... the good side of him staying there meant he didn't jump, the bad side meant Kelly saw him later on.. It just told her not to worry.. "they're more afraid of you than you of them"..she bought it !!
29/11/05 Negombo - Galle (Unawatuna)
As we'd no guide book we hired a guide to drive us around the country. Got him to take us straight to Mickey D's for some good hangover food. Driving down the coast to Unawatuna took 4 1/2 hours with 1 of them spent just getting through the capital Colombo.
I was playing with the turtles head along the way..but please allow me to explain. We'd stopped off at a sanctuary for turtles which was partially destroyed by the Tsunami. I picked a few of them up..heavy chaps!
Sadly though this was only the first glimpse we caught of the devastation. The further south we went , the more damage. A train track twisted like spaghetti was left as a reminder, the new track beside it. Maybe you might remember some of the footage on sky (It's hard to forget) were the train that was derailed and many died. This train is sitting on the old track further down the line. It was very eerie seeing it. From a distance you think shadows are moving around on it. I got out to walk to it but was immediately seized by 20 or more beggars throwing babies in my face. They claimed they had lost their parents and were looking for money for them, they're wailing voices in my ear felt like it was coming from the train. As a woman approached they fell silent and turned back. I took a picture and left. Our guide was telling us that the beggars weren't victims at all. The woman that approached must have been affected and maybe that's why they stopped. Either way it wasn't a nice experience. It had an effect on me for a long while. I was imagining what it was like when the waves came in, I'd awake from thought to find my lips shut tight.(You know the feeling)
The trail of devastation continued, we passed the bus stop where the repeated footage on sky was shown. This was were 5 women were holding on to a shelter and 2 of them were pulled away into a maelstrom. Everything was fully functional again..when you see it up close you really begin to understand the sheer volume that came through. Later at our destination a demented man who'd lost his mother roamed the beach. He'd found her after a 3 day search and carried her body home. He's never been the same. This was one of the harder days of the travels.
30/11/05 Galle (Unawatuna)
Walked around Unawatuna beach today... Crystal clear waters its hard to believe something as beautiful could cause such carnage. Alongside smashed homes are people rebuilding, later we went into Galle to take another look at the bus terminal. The land is so low ,the wave travelled in 2km and was over 20ft high. Galle fort protected some parts as its high up. While at the top of the fort , overlooking the 70-100 ft drop a group of lads asked me if I wanted to see them jump for money. Not a hope..at first.. but they pitched a good argument about needing money (and i really did want to see it too). And being the generous person that I am I agreed to pay them for the jump(on their return), but not the funeral.. I sat on the edge and got the camera ready, then one of them took a run and blind jump over the edge. Crazy b^stid..head fist into what turned out to be 5ft of water. I don't know how he did it, I know of people diving into water from a pool side and end up in hospital. $2.50 it cost for this entertainment (including a 50 cent tip..hey, thats the kind of guy i am!!)..he could buy his brother a fresh pair of pants..Im sure he needed them.
Went looking for fishermen to help them bring in their nets but no sign today.
01/12/05 Galle (Unawatuna) - Yala
Made an early morning scuba dive for all of 20 euro. A bargain for these waters i thought but forgetting the damage beneath. The fish had returned and plenty of lobster(I should have caught one and sent it back to the suicidal chef) but the reef was dead and it will take many years to recover. Kelly waited on the boat and attempted to read a book..what colour is white ?? After 2 seconds she had put the book down and began concentrating on the horizon while I was grabbing puffer fish 30 metres below. The dive masters little girl was 1 year old and Kelly fell in love with her..she was gorgeous. But I wonder if she'd still want to take her home if she held onto her for 1 second longer before she peed on the floor.
Drove 4 hours to Yala leaving behind waiters who slip you their address and make you promise you'll stay with them if you ever return. More signs of disaster surround you but you see the school children laughing and getting on with it so it make things feel better.
Met a German couple who'd lived in Sri Lanka in 1980...with their children too. Very interesting people and funny too. The stereo typical accent makes it. There was no such thing as toilet paper back then so they had to ship their own in. Just imagine calling into all expats homes to ask "zem if zey vant sam bog roll". a 3 year supply was ordered. As we'd only just met I didn't go into his wipe and folding techniques but Im sure a 3 year supply was a large amount for zem too.
He also explained the 3 phases you go through in a tropical country.
Phase 1 , a fly lands in your drink and you take the fly out and leave the drink aside. Phase 2, take the fly out and drink it. Phase 3 leave the fly there and just drink it. Im at phase 2, although at times, and only too late you discover you've hit phase 3. Only the rich remain on phase one and the hungry on 3.
02/12/05 - Yala National Park - Kandi
Forgot to sent the alarm so a 5:30 knock at the door was good enough. Scrambling to the jeep it was off to the national park. Our driver was skilled enough, I don't think there was one pot hole missed. I was treating the spare wheel on the bonnet as an ornament because there are leopards in this park. If worse comes to it, then i'd offer to time the driver on a wheel change. A park guide jumped in and spent most of the time talking to the driver than animal spotting, so I don't understand the look on his face when he didn't get a tip. Spot more animals next time..ya p**ck.
A good trip , plenty of elephants, birds and crocodiles but no leopards. And with my new careful what you wish for approach I was only a little disappointed. We stopped at a former over night station to get out and walk. 65 people lost their lives less than a year ago here doing exactly what we were doing.. It's a scary thought when you look out at the sea, it can happen just like that.
A 9 hour drive awaited us after the park and shower. I've never been so dirty. Visited tea plantations high up in the hills. I think it was 2500 metres above sea level. (Saw a monkey that was the image of Ger Byrne..sorry Ger.) visited a market selling real Helly Hansen, Nike, Adidas stuff from 1 -15 euro.. they're made here. Arrived in Kandi after a long day with my head routed to the bottom of my ars3.
03/12/05 Kandi - Negombo
The whole point behind visiting Kandi was because of recommendations from everyone for the wonderful temples. A big let down and not worth it for this. A snake charmer kept following me around with his cobra looking for money. He obviously didn't read my last email about being cured with snakes. Honestly..who is looking after the menu on this trip..Could they strike snakes, spiders and rats from it please.
Walked through the botanical gardens where most of the film "the bridge over the river Quai" was shot. Then on to an elephant orphanage where over 70 elephants now reside. They started off in the 70's with just 4 rejected handicapped elephants. It was great watching them freely roam around up close and personal. The prehistoric roar from them is deafening. I watched a baby elephant come out of a feeding pen screaming for its mother as it turned out. Had I known how to speak Elephant I would have gotten out of there. The mother came flying around the corner having broken free and was making an angry dash my way. Kelly had already ran but i felt safe near a tour guide. That was until he ran passed me so i took the hint and got going myself. They were, after all, from a handicapped family and its possible I could have looked like a (rather attractive) banana through their spanner eyes. I especially didn't want to anger the daddy with his rather impressive 5th leg..they other 4 move at some speed let me tell you.
Drove passed a clothing factory were 90% of the workers are women. I know where I'd be cycling by if I were a young single sri lankan lad.
04-05 /12/05 - Negombo
Returned to Negombo to spend our last 2 days here before flying to Vietnam. We met up with an English couple who live here most of the year. They, in turn, were drinking with 2 retired german fellas who took us in under their wing. We ver zer Comrades..1 was a former merchant sailor the other a soldier. If they liked us at first the loved us when they found out we weren't english. They had some good stories which i wont go into but the soldier, for 25 years was based in Germany. Then for his last 10 years he was in Kosovo, Samalia and Ruanda to name a few places. He must have been due a pension they didn't want to pay.
Myself and the food haven't been getting on here at all. How I long to sing the womack and womack classic "Solid" (I know Mr. McGirr you asked me to go into degree of difficulty and texture but I think you might get the message)
Sri Lanka is well worth the visit. The people are great. Kelly thought the fellas were ok and the few women I accidentally looked at weren't bad either.
When you visit India and Sri Lanka and other Asian countries you realise what Ireland's greatest victory actually was. It wasn't beating England in 88 and it wasn't a tour de france. It was winning miss world. "Christy Burke's" may not have paid the ferryman but he definitely paid someone, because his daughter's "constant surprised" look wasn't enough to pull it off against these women. We, after all, are a nation that was once voted second ugliest in the world(..just ask Declan Coyle) so something doesn't add up.
Caught a taxi to the airport and went through a drink driving check point. The copper was banjoed himself. He stuck his head in the window and told Kelly she wasn't allowed leave the country.. he wanted to take her home...of course this wasn't because he was drunk..Im sure he would have asked anyway..guess who's dead later !!
ta da..and so marks another updates end.leaving for Australia tomorrow and looking forward to it.. Will send on the Vietnam Cambodia upate during the week. It's hard to find the time to keep up to date.
27/11/05 Sri Lanka (Negombo)
Arrived late last night amidst the rain. shared a taxi with two lovely Israeli girls..bit mad though. Didn't know that girls were also drafted into the army services, thought it was just the blokes. They can't understand why the Swiss draft people into the army as everyone likes them. She has a point !!.. and I reckon you could learn how to use a Swiss army knife in your own time too. Don't think they got the joke.
Sri Lanka has the feel of Jamaica, no hassle ! You say no once to the tuk tuk drivers and you're left alone.
Had dinner in a suicidal restaurant. Chef must have been given the elbow by his missus. Maybe he was forced to cook his favourite lobster. The music was just terrible. It would wipe the smile off a chimpanzee with its finger up its ars3.
The carpenters "you needed me", Atlantic Star "Secret lovers", Chris de berk "they're all sh1te" and loads of country and western songs such as "fetch me the noose my wife's in love with the neighbours horse" or "I thought you said size didn't matter" ..all bellowing out of the speakers. I wanted to run in the back and give him a hug.
Met up with the Israeli girls again...had a good laugh discussing our different cultures. They couldn't believe that Irish girls can't bring boys home to sleep over at 15. I think I'd be putting my Swiss army knife to some good use if I had a 15 year old daughter ask me that.
28/11/05 - Negombo
Got burned by the pool today..well actually I got burned by the sun while I was sitting near the pool but you know what i mean. Later when i left the room to get some Aloe Vera gel, after closing the door, i looked up to see an 8 legged creature make it's way towards the exit on the wall. I was quite happy with the direction it was taking until he decided to stop and run to the ceiling, then turn around to face me and sat there. He was a little bigger than a clenched fist, very fast and most importantly blocking me exit. I didn't remember ordering the spider ! This situation were something I hate puts itself between me and salvation had reared its head again (was it going to be 3rd time unlucky)
Casting my mind back to the rats or the snake, the same fear was gripping me. It's the same fear that made Kelly jump onto the nearest boat last week. By the time I got to her, she'd just managed to speak again..sobbing the words "wine... opener...please".
It's at this point that I'd like to dispel a myth...mark this one down as complete and utter b0110x please. It's one of these things people say to you to make you feel better.. like "freckles are a sign of beauty" or " the tooth fairy will pay you for that"..both of these can leave you heart broken when you find out the truth.
Im talking now though about the "they're more frightened of you than you of them" myth.. it's an impossibility, trust me. Something that looks like its about to latch onto your face to impregnate you with offspring is not afraid of you at all.
If he/she kept going towards the exit and didn't look back then you could accept this.
I waited for it to move, considered throwing something at it but if it caught it and ate it then I'd be in trouble. I walked slowly under it and past and had to do the same again on the way back... the good side of him staying there meant he didn't jump, the bad side meant Kelly saw him later on.. It just told her not to worry.. "they're more afraid of you than you of them"..she bought it !!
29/11/05 Negombo - Galle (Unawatuna)
As we'd no guide book we hired a guide to drive us around the country. Got him to take us straight to Mickey D's for some good hangover food. Driving down the coast to Unawatuna took 4 1/2 hours with 1 of them spent just getting through the capital Colombo.
I was playing with the turtles head along the way..but please allow me to explain. We'd stopped off at a sanctuary for turtles which was partially destroyed by the Tsunami. I picked a few of them up..heavy chaps!
Sadly though this was only the first glimpse we caught of the devastation. The further south we went , the more damage. A train track twisted like spaghetti was left as a reminder, the new track beside it. Maybe you might remember some of the footage on sky (It's hard to forget) were the train that was derailed and many died. This train is sitting on the old track further down the line. It was very eerie seeing it. From a distance you think shadows are moving around on it. I got out to walk to it but was immediately seized by 20 or more beggars throwing babies in my face. They claimed they had lost their parents and were looking for money for them, they're wailing voices in my ear felt like it was coming from the train. As a woman approached they fell silent and turned back. I took a picture and left. Our guide was telling us that the beggars weren't victims at all. The woman that approached must have been affected and maybe that's why they stopped. Either way it wasn't a nice experience. It had an effect on me for a long while. I was imagining what it was like when the waves came in, I'd awake from thought to find my lips shut tight.(You know the feeling)
The trail of devastation continued, we passed the bus stop where the repeated footage on sky was shown. This was were 5 women were holding on to a shelter and 2 of them were pulled away into a maelstrom. Everything was fully functional again..when you see it up close you really begin to understand the sheer volume that came through. Later at our destination a demented man who'd lost his mother roamed the beach. He'd found her after a 3 day search and carried her body home. He's never been the same. This was one of the harder days of the travels.
30/11/05 Galle (Unawatuna)
Walked around Unawatuna beach today... Crystal clear waters its hard to believe something as beautiful could cause such carnage. Alongside smashed homes are people rebuilding, later we went into Galle to take another look at the bus terminal. The land is so low ,the wave travelled in 2km and was over 20ft high. Galle fort protected some parts as its high up. While at the top of the fort , overlooking the 70-100 ft drop a group of lads asked me if I wanted to see them jump for money. Not a hope..at first.. but they pitched a good argument about needing money (and i really did want to see it too). And being the generous person that I am I agreed to pay them for the jump(on their return), but not the funeral.. I sat on the edge and got the camera ready, then one of them took a run and blind jump over the edge. Crazy b^stid..head fist into what turned out to be 5ft of water. I don't know how he did it, I know of people diving into water from a pool side and end up in hospital. $2.50 it cost for this entertainment (including a 50 cent tip..hey, thats the kind of guy i am!!)..he could buy his brother a fresh pair of pants..Im sure he needed them.
Went looking for fishermen to help them bring in their nets but no sign today.
01/12/05 Galle (Unawatuna) - Yala
Made an early morning scuba dive for all of 20 euro. A bargain for these waters i thought but forgetting the damage beneath. The fish had returned and plenty of lobster(I should have caught one and sent it back to the suicidal chef) but the reef was dead and it will take many years to recover. Kelly waited on the boat and attempted to read a book..what colour is white ?? After 2 seconds she had put the book down and began concentrating on the horizon while I was grabbing puffer fish 30 metres below. The dive masters little girl was 1 year old and Kelly fell in love with her..she was gorgeous. But I wonder if she'd still want to take her home if she held onto her for 1 second longer before she peed on the floor.
Drove 4 hours to Yala leaving behind waiters who slip you their address and make you promise you'll stay with them if you ever return. More signs of disaster surround you but you see the school children laughing and getting on with it so it make things feel better.
Met a German couple who'd lived in Sri Lanka in 1980...with their children too. Very interesting people and funny too. The stereo typical accent makes it. There was no such thing as toilet paper back then so they had to ship their own in. Just imagine calling into all expats homes to ask "zem if zey vant sam bog roll". a 3 year supply was ordered. As we'd only just met I didn't go into his wipe and folding techniques but Im sure a 3 year supply was a large amount for zem too.
He also explained the 3 phases you go through in a tropical country.
Phase 1 , a fly lands in your drink and you take the fly out and leave the drink aside. Phase 2, take the fly out and drink it. Phase 3 leave the fly there and just drink it. Im at phase 2, although at times, and only too late you discover you've hit phase 3. Only the rich remain on phase one and the hungry on 3.
02/12/05 - Yala National Park - Kandi
Forgot to sent the alarm so a 5:30 knock at the door was good enough. Scrambling to the jeep it was off to the national park. Our driver was skilled enough, I don't think there was one pot hole missed. I was treating the spare wheel on the bonnet as an ornament because there are leopards in this park. If worse comes to it, then i'd offer to time the driver on a wheel change. A park guide jumped in and spent most of the time talking to the driver than animal spotting, so I don't understand the look on his face when he didn't get a tip. Spot more animals next time..ya p**ck.
A good trip , plenty of elephants, birds and crocodiles but no leopards. And with my new careful what you wish for approach I was only a little disappointed. We stopped at a former over night station to get out and walk. 65 people lost their lives less than a year ago here doing exactly what we were doing.. It's a scary thought when you look out at the sea, it can happen just like that.
A 9 hour drive awaited us after the park and shower. I've never been so dirty. Visited tea plantations high up in the hills. I think it was 2500 metres above sea level. (Saw a monkey that was the image of Ger Byrne..sorry Ger.) visited a market selling real Helly Hansen, Nike, Adidas stuff from 1 -15 euro.. they're made here. Arrived in Kandi after a long day with my head routed to the bottom of my ars3.
03/12/05 Kandi - Negombo
The whole point behind visiting Kandi was because of recommendations from everyone for the wonderful temples. A big let down and not worth it for this. A snake charmer kept following me around with his cobra looking for money. He obviously didn't read my last email about being cured with snakes. Honestly..who is looking after the menu on this trip..Could they strike snakes, spiders and rats from it please.
Walked through the botanical gardens where most of the film "the bridge over the river Quai" was shot. Then on to an elephant orphanage where over 70 elephants now reside. They started off in the 70's with just 4 rejected handicapped elephants. It was great watching them freely roam around up close and personal. The prehistoric roar from them is deafening. I watched a baby elephant come out of a feeding pen screaming for its mother as it turned out. Had I known how to speak Elephant I would have gotten out of there. The mother came flying around the corner having broken free and was making an angry dash my way. Kelly had already ran but i felt safe near a tour guide. That was until he ran passed me so i took the hint and got going myself. They were, after all, from a handicapped family and its possible I could have looked like a (rather attractive) banana through their spanner eyes. I especially didn't want to anger the daddy with his rather impressive 5th leg..they other 4 move at some speed let me tell you.
Drove passed a clothing factory were 90% of the workers are women. I know where I'd be cycling by if I were a young single sri lankan lad.
04-05 /12/05 - Negombo
Returned to Negombo to spend our last 2 days here before flying to Vietnam. We met up with an English couple who live here most of the year. They, in turn, were drinking with 2 retired german fellas who took us in under their wing. We ver zer Comrades..1 was a former merchant sailor the other a soldier. If they liked us at first the loved us when they found out we weren't english. They had some good stories which i wont go into but the soldier, for 25 years was based in Germany. Then for his last 10 years he was in Kosovo, Samalia and Ruanda to name a few places. He must have been due a pension they didn't want to pay.
Myself and the food haven't been getting on here at all. How I long to sing the womack and womack classic "Solid" (I know Mr. McGirr you asked me to go into degree of difficulty and texture but I think you might get the message)
Sri Lanka is well worth the visit. The people are great. Kelly thought the fellas were ok and the few women I accidentally looked at weren't bad either.
When you visit India and Sri Lanka and other Asian countries you realise what Ireland's greatest victory actually was. It wasn't beating England in 88 and it wasn't a tour de france. It was winning miss world. "Christy Burke's" may not have paid the ferryman but he definitely paid someone, because his daughter's "constant surprised" look wasn't enough to pull it off against these women. We, after all, are a nation that was once voted second ugliest in the world(..just ask Declan Coyle) so something doesn't add up.
Caught a taxi to the airport and went through a drink driving check point. The copper was banjoed himself. He stuck his head in the window and told Kelly she wasn't allowed leave the country.. he wanted to take her home...of course this wasn't because he was drunk..Im sure he would have asked anyway..guess who's dead later !!
ta da..and so marks another updates end.leaving for Australia tomorrow and looking forward to it.. Will send on the Vietnam Cambodia upate during the week. It's hard to find the time to keep up to date.
posted by Gavin Harmon @ 2:32 AM
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